FASHION PEOPLE

專訪 Tamara Cincik:疫情當前,全球時尚產業的挑戰

當前世界局勢動盪,時尚產業也未能倖免於難。在金融、勞工權益和產業未來的安全保障等棘手的問題上,很多事情都岌岌可危。我们聯繫到總部位於倫敦的倡議組織 Fashion Roundtable——創始人兼執行長 Tamara Cincik(專訪中簡稱 T),一個由業界專家所組成的領先團隊,過去合作制定了許多具變革性的方案與策略。

過去擁有擔任時尚編輯、品牌顧問的經驗,Tamara Cincik 目前是 Textiles and Fashion 議會小組的執行秘書,針對全球時尚產業現況,我們覺得她相當適合分享一些觀點。

Tamara Cincik


 

Q:在疫情當前的情況下,
妳本身一直站在支持時尚界的最前線,
過程中妳所經歷的最大挑戰是?
.

T:「步調跟協調性是主要的挑戰,所有的因素都要結合在一起,財務、決策等方面的工作都很困難,我們一直在推動UK Solution,在整個產業的供應鏈上能夠更為永續且協調性更佳。」

 

Q:新聞中經常問起全球安全設備的問題,包括在英國政府的每日匯報中也都會被提出。
作為回應,妳透過跟服裝廠商協調,請他們盡可能生產製造衣服,
以便減低進口的壓力,對此妳的想法是?
.

T:「從一種做事的方式展開另一種新的方式是非常具有挑戰性的。我們支持英國在地製造作為解決辦法,因為我們有技術和能力。我們也支持像 Emergency Designer Network 這樣的草根團體活動。」

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Here are some snaps from our weekly Fashion Roundtable x COVID-19 webinar yesterday! This week we had a brilliant team of sustainable activists and designers join us! We had Anna Foster, Fashion Director at Large at @russhmagazine and founder of E.L.V DENIM @elvdenim, sustainable activist Tamsin Blanchard, who has organised @fashionopenstudio and sustainable designers @joshuajsmall and @ellissellisselliss Whilst the coronavirus pandemic has taken centre stage in our lives, the fight for a more sustainable and healthy future for the fashion industry continues! It was brilliant to catch up with these activists and hear how they are continuing their work from home. Thanks so much to everyone who dialled in! Don't forget to join us the week after next! If you haven't already registered, please email sarah.squires@fashionroundtable.co.uk and she will send the dial in details. If you have any questions in advance please feel free to email those to our experts at admin@fashionroundtable.co.uk. Looking forward to seeing you Friday week at 2pm! Next Friday we will be all tuning into the @fash_rev Question Time with speakers including @lisacameronsnp Chair of the APPG for Textiles and Fashion and chaired by @baronesslola co chair of the APPG for Ethics and Sustainability In Fashion. #ThereIsStrengthInCommunity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . #webinar #weeklywebinar #coronavirus #virus #health #community #selfisolation #connection #support #group #together #work #workingfromhome #supporteachother #findwork #empowerment #togetherwearestronger #sharingeconomy #fashionroundtable #fashionroundtablecommunity #help #love #pandemic #fashionrevolutionweek

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Q:您認為政府在幫助英國時尚產業方面有什麼貢獻?
.

T:「現在政府已經將整個產業當作一個群體来看待,而這個產業又涉及到多個部門,審查每個部門需要時間。我們是一個獨特、有價值的產業,需要很多層面的支持,才能度過這次跟未來可能的危機。」

 

Q:這次的疫情是全球性的,
你認為,全球的時裝公司對成衣工人和紡織品製造商
是否承擔足夠的責任?
.

T:「在保護社會中的弱勢這部分,不論是當地或是全球範圍,總能夠做更多。我們現在看到的情況將為企業在這個動盪的時代中前奠定基調,企業同時也能藉著這個機會,確立正確的方向。」

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Sending love & well wishes 💞 . . “As we adjust to the new normal, I am juggling working from home (In a daily rotation of gym gear), with home-schooling, self-isolation and all the on-going uncertainty This pandemic is personal, financial, existential and environmental. Like all of you, I have never known a time like it: from worrying for those within our community who are in financial freefall, which is many of us, to supporting charities @refugecharity , @trusselltrust and @fareshareuk ; plus our work with the @emergencydesignernetwork and British Textiles Consortium on PPE strategies for our frontline NHS heroes. BTS we have also been very active in lobbying Government to support the many diverse needs of our multifaceted sector, as well as our weekly newsletter, resources and webinars (have you registered for tomorrow’s?). Fashion Roundtable has never been busier” – Tamara (CEO @fashionroundtable) ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ Head to our latest newsletter for the full read via the link in our bio. Ph: @fuscojeremy with @dvoraphoto . . Here are a few mental health resources if you're feeling anxious or overwhelmed – @headspace – Anxiety UK: www.anxietyuk.org.uk @anxietyukofficial – CALM: www.thecalmzone.net @calmzone – Mind: www.mind.org.uk @mindcharity – Rethink Mental Illness www.rethink.org @rethinkmentalillness . . . . . . ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ #Behindthescenes #fashionroundtable #anxiety #mentalhealthawareness #mentalhealthsupport #positivethinking #avoidoverwhelm #mentalhealth #support #shiftyourenergy #stress #mentalhealthtips #mind #cheerfullylive #healtogether #livingwithanxiety #reclaimthehappy

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Q:我們已經看到許多企業跟勞工獲得幫助,但在整個歐洲,
人們也看見,這些選擇很少是提供給那些需要工作簽證跟基本經濟條件過活的模特兒們,
他們是否已經成為這場危機中被遺忘的一部分?
.

T:「在危機發生之前,我們在遊說簽證方便付出大量心力,尤其是圍繞在服裝生產方面的短缺職業清單(Shortage Occupation List;SOL),能讓縫紉工在國際間找工作,產業的國際本質將會是我們優先處理的目標,同時也是FreeMoveCreate 運動的一部分,打從一開始便是如此。Covid-19 使某些挑戰變得更加艱難,我們希望大家現在能更清楚看到這些挑戰,並同時希望大家能更清楚了解在疫情過後與脫歐和貿易有關的挑戰何在。」


Text by HR feature writer/ ROSS POLLARD
Translation by HEAVEN RAVEN