FASHION NEWS

首個無性別系列 Gucci Mx — 60 年代 Jackie 為女性而生,2020 年,為什麼男生更該背?

Alessandro Michele 不僅是 Gucci 第一位舉辦男女裝合秀的創意總監,性別流動與身體自主更是他長期倡議的理念。近期 Gucci 成立 Non Binary(非二元性別部門)正式推出全新「無性別」系列 Gucci Mx。

再次證明 —— 在時尚面前,性別不重要,自由,才是關鍵。

photo via Gucci

Gucci 官網這麼寫道:

「Gucci 的產品旨在解構傳統先入為主的二元性,對這些概念與身體之間的關係表達質疑,我們以 Gucci Mx 來慶祝所有追求性別平等的自我表達。」

這也是精品時尚界的首創「無性別」系列,對近日消沈的市場注入新的活力。

photo via Gucci

photo via Gucci

對於創意總監 Alessandro Michele,流動性、包容性一直是他大力倡議的概念,終於在 Mx 系列得以完全體現。該系列包括服裝、包包、鞋子與配件,多以寬鬆剪裁為主,其中最值得一提的是轟動 6、70 年代的 Jackie 1961 包款除了亮相於 2020 秋冬的男女裝系列之外,又在 Mx 系列中重新詮釋。

我在男女裝系列都分別推出了新的 Jackie 1961,它是其中一個可以用來打破疆界的經典包,而且放在誰身上都會很有趣。」Alessandro Michele 在受訪時提到。

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“I have put the new #GucciJackie1961 on men and women and think that it is one of the bags from the past which can be used across the board now—it’s a bag that is interesting on everyone,” @alessandro_michele.
The new handbag design flies above traditional accessory classifications with its non-binary attitude,versatile size and flexible styling possibilities. Photography by @angelopennetta with creative direction by #AlessandroMichele and art direction by @christophersimmonds. Exclusively debuting on Gucci’s website, the small GG motif Jackie 1961 handbag is available now and the leather styles can be pre-ordered. The new bag will be featured in the MX section on Gucci’s website: a hand-picked selection of clothing and accessories with a gender fluid approach launched today. Discover more through link in bio.
#AlessandroMichele #GucciFW20

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除了炙手可熱的 Jackie 包,整個系列瀏覽下來都有著濃濃的復古味道,材質上可見許多天鵝絨、燈芯絨、緞面等等。寬鬆的長短褲、鮮豔的配色與圖案搭配個性鮮明的配件一應俱全。

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為宣傳 Mx 系列的與眾不同,Gucci 邀請過去曾合作過的漫畫藝術家 Melek Zertal 推出一系列漫畫,角色穿著 Gucci Mx 的服裝,以簡短的對話、漫畫形式,趣味地帶出 Gucci Mx 系列欲探討的主題。該系列漫畫將於 9 月在米蘭藝術刊物 Frankenstein Magazine 上連載。

如下圖此此張漫畫之情節,描述一名教授在課堂授課的場景,談論著「性別認同不是一成不變的概念,而是動態的,它由我們的日常行為和自我表達構成。」並要求學生完成一份有關性別認同的論文。

Melek Zertal 將自身的成長經驗化作靈感, 創造出特別卻又平凡的學生 Nokia、Gemini 和 Athon,故事便以三位主角為了完成性別認同作業所經歷的奇遇為開端。

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1/9 Gucci announces MX, a curated selection across categories and collections designed by @alessandro_michele that defy traditional stereotypes, celebrating liberty and self-expression. MX is celebrated by artist @melekzertal in a specially commissioned comic strip ahead of the September launch of Issue 4 of @frankenstein_magazine—the Milan-based publication art directed the work. In this first illustration, the professor is quoted saying “Gender identity is not something static, instead it is dynamic and it is constituted by our daily behaviour and self-expression”. The professor wears a look from MX of a coat, denim pants and #GucciEyewear. MX is born from the 5-year creative vision of #AlessandroMichele’s collections which take shape in gender fluidity and freedom to express who you are. Discover MX, available exclusively on Gucci.com through link in bio.

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貼文內容中寫道「學校帶你走出父母的懷抱,走入責任的世界,你必須弄清楚自己是誰,想要成為怎樣的人,並找到屬於自己的家庭。這是個恐怖、刺激,同時又無趣的過程。」

「長期以來,時尚被當作解放自己的工具,我們所選擇的服裝足以代表我們的個性。你是孤獨的一匹狼,亦或是群體的一部分。」

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2/9 “School gets you out of your parental home, and throws you in a new world of responsibilities. You have to figure out who you are and what you want to be—and find your chosen family as well. It’s scary, exciting, and boring at the same time.” Artist @melekzertal chose school as the setting for their comic strip to celebrate MX—pieces across categories and collections designed by
@alessandro_michele that defy traditional gender stereotypes. In this illustration, the #GucciJackie1961 bag is pictured on the desk of a student—wearing a #Gucci knit—pondering an assigned personal essay on gender and sexual identity. @frankenstein_magazine collaborated with the artist on writing the script for the illustrations. #AlessandroMichele Discover MX, available
exclusively on Gucci.com through link in bio.

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從小在巴黎長大,出生於阿爾及利亞的 Melek Zertal 在受訪時提到:「對我來說 Gucci Mx 的服裝與配件看起來有些複雜,雖然我在巴黎長大,卻一直以來都並非是一個『時尚的人』。花了好一段時間檢視我的身體,用『我可以穿什麼衣服』的概念來當作繪畫的起點,最後才畫出像我自己風格的角色。」

「弄清自己的身份對於我們和身邊的環境而言都是棘手的。違反社會定義的規範來找到自己,是件不容易的事。我們還必須捍衛它,避免受周圍人的侵害,有時還可能違背我們親人的期望。」Melek Zertal 說道:

年輕世代對於表現自我的無畏,讓我對憧憬自由且平等的未來,產生了希望。」

創意總監 Alessandro Michele 便是基於逐漸在大眾視野成形的性別流動概念創造出Mx」,一個能讓所有人自由表達「我是誰」的地方。

漫畫
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若要完全消弭生理性別之間的差異或許仍相當困難,不過服裝作為一種人格特質的延伸和與世界交流的管道,Gucci 提供了一個嶄新的概念,給消費者們顛覆自己的選項。