Vogue Runway網站編輯與部落客開戰,時尚圈究竟誰說了算?

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時裝周前夕,許多部落客(和媒體)便是紛紛與品牌廠商聯繫申請秀票的時間,在時裝周場外也不乏看到部落客穿著商借來的衣服現身(給他人街拍或敲攝影師自己街拍自己並標簽品牌名稱)。這“看似”稀鬆平常的事,但Vogue Runway的編輯們似乎對此有話要說。

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戰火是來自Vogue Runway 9/26的一篇〈Ciao, Milano! Vogue.com’s Editors Discuss the Week That Was〉,原以為只是時裝周的家常見聞,殊不知內文充斥了許多對部落客的指責與批評。主要攻擊是來自時尚新聞編輯Alessandra Codinha,她在內文中寫道:

「我能承認我是支持Vogue創意數位總監Sally部落客謬論的嗎?在此無法用言語表達這有多滑稽,因為我們竟然還在稱呼這些人叫做『部落客(Blogger)』,雖然只有極少數的人還在幹這活,但他們讓自己看起來更像是用誇張滑稽的裝扮刷存在感,然後在座位上抽蓄擺動瘋狂自拍,種種行徑只為了讓社群感覺更有作為。這真的很尷尬,尤其是明明世界上還有其他大事正在發生時。(你登記投票了沒?別忘了9/26晚上是總統第一場辯論呢!)

喜歡時尚是很棒的,人們對時尚的熱情在產業是非常重要的,畢竟買衣服是因為欲望而非需求,但我覺得聰明的人們很快就會意識到,付錢給部落客出席活動和那些贊助的衣服是多麼的噁心。他們的造型是在“付錢給你穿去前台展示”的基礎上,這就像是去脫衣俱樂部尋找浪漫愛情一樣。當然,這或許在場內看起來有那麼一回事,但在現實世界根本成不了氣候。」

而在相同議題上,其他編輯也沒閒著,像是創意數位總監Sally Singer就說:「請停止,找份別的工作吧,你們這是造型死亡的預警。」;首席評論Sarah Mower則用「可悲」來形容被街拍的部落客們,寫道:「不知已看過幾次那些絕望的白目(Troll)在場外遊蕩,冒著被車撞的危險,擋住交通,只為了能夠被街拍。」最後,Vogue Runway的總監Nicole Phelps說:「這用悲哀還不足以形容,他們已是令人苦惱的。」

是的,看完了編輯們不完全合理的論調,部落客先驅Susie Bubble率先用推特回嗆:「首先,讓我們就別假裝編輯和造型師沒受品牌贊助一樣,出版社所付的薪水和品牌廣告商是共生關係,只是沒明確表態罷了;再者,穿著贊助的(廠商付錢或借來的)衣服部落客的所作所為不過就是跟內頁廣告是一樣系統的事,只是可憐的部落客沒有顯赫的頭銜(和出版社)能夠保護他們、替他們發聲。」她暗諷,「如果那些“付錢贊助”的造型真的這麼惹人嫌的話,網站何不停止時裝周的街拍特輯,別再從中得到點擊率。」(對此,躺著也中鎗的Vogue Runway攝影師Phil Oh就回應:「或許我們應該有替代方案。」)

另一位知名部落客Bryanboy也在Twitter回應:「這一切就是校園霸凌,簡單明瞭。比起攻擊其他編輯,他們一定很滿意來找我們這些部落客的碴。」他也用推特發文說,自己的衣櫥裡是有真材實料(像是Gucci by Tom Ford還有Dries Van Noten的大衣),甚至上傳自己“買來的”希拉蕊競選T恤來證明他也有在關注美國總統大選。「我還記得有些編輯曾對我說他們只去特定的秀因為他們是廣告廠商,」他提及諷刺道,「那些內頁全身都穿著Runway造型又要怎麼解釋?難不成明星登上封面是因為他們是品牌代言人嗎?」

來自LA的部落客Shea Marie(Peace, Love Shea)在自己的IG上發了一篇長文,內容指出整件事最可悲的就是這篇嫉妒惡毒的偽善文。「很抱歉你無法接受公眾人物穿著華服走上街頭比你的時裝周專欄更有影響力,但這意味著時尚圈已不再是你隻手遮天的日子。」Shea Marie隨後在推特發文說,「猜猜看 @voguemagazine 在IG最多流言的貼文是哪篇?是我和Caroline Vreeland被街拍到的照片,諷刺吧。」

 

 

[Mini Preface here: I was waiting to post this pic as my very own warm spirited “Ciao, Milano!" But now it seems even more apropos… ] Dear @voguemagazine, since you hold a special and significant place in my heart, may I pose a question? If certain people on your team hate bloggers & influencers so much, I'm just curious why you put them on your international covers to increase sales. I'm not a blogger but I find your recent statements old fashioned and just plain rude. Most of the bloggers I know are hard working young entrepreneurs. I find it shameful that an institution such as Vogue would demean and belittle these young people who are building their own paths, especially since they are mostly young women, calling them "pathetic" and comparing them to strippers. This certainly isn't the Vogue voice my great-grandmother once stood for. One contributor writes that she envies the Italian woman who enjoys life…maybe less complaining and worrying about what other people are doing would help to quell this jealousy. I say live and let live! I think all chic women, Italian and otherwise, would agree. Xoxo, the girl who wore a full body fishnet at 9am. Photo by @timuremek_photography

Caroline Vreeland(@carolinevreeland)張貼的相片 於 張貼

 

作為Shea Marie好友兼模特兒的Caroline Vreeland也丟出了個疑問,「如果Vogue你的團隊中有人真的這麼討厭部落客的話,我好奇為什麼你還會把他們擺在國際封面上來增加銷量勒?」

 

 

As I sat with friends watching the debate last night, I felt anxiety about the future of our country. Watching two presidential hopefuls argue over tax reform, immigration and racial profiling amongst petty insults and interruptions was discouraging to say the least. On a more personal level, I woke up this morning to the published commentary of Vogue and Vogue.com editors essentially bullying "bloggers" and I thought, if women can't even support each other in a female-centric industry, then we really are screwed. I've always felt the word "blogger" is reductive and non-descriptive of what I and many others like myself do. I am an entrepreneur, an influencer, a business woman…and yes, I have a blog too. It saddens me that a respected institution such as Vogue would insult bloggers and attempt to discourage young woman from forging their own career paths, by expressing themselves through what Vogue represents; personal style fashion. I've always felt my "brand" to be slightly more commercial than high end, but that doesn't mean I don't aspire to work with Vogue one day. And on some level I get it; parading around for street style photographers outside a show may look silly to some, but this exchange between photographers, models, celebrities, editors and, yes, bloggers serves a necessary purpose in this industry. From a practical perspective, it provides content for websites like Vogue.com and from an artistic perspective provides a large platform for brands to display their most recent collections. I’d like to give Vogue the benefit of the doubt here, and say that a few old-school editors representing an archaic mindset of the prestigious publication rattled off some thoughtless, bitter comments. Perhaps they’ll change their opinions after reading the responses of countless bloggers, followers, and readers alike who are firing back with their own opinions on who and what matters in our industry. I think it’s safe to say almost every designer, brand, and model in the fashion industry owes some of their success to the rise of social media and digital content. No one should be made to feel ashamed of that. And yes, I am registered to vote.

by Danielle(@weworewhat)張貼的相片 於 張貼

 

Danielle Bernstein(We Wore What)也對此發表了意見,她首先因為總統辯論有感而發,對於女生如果還不能在這個“以女性為主的產業”團結一致的話,那一切就真的毀了。她認為,「在產業中任何一個設計師、品牌和模特兒都應該能透過社群和網路媒介有自己成功的機會,不用為此感到羞恥。」

客觀的說,一本雜誌的出刊,細數封面和時尚內頁結合了攝影師、編輯和模特兒的共同合作,套句《穿著Prada的惡魔》電影檯詞:「妳不知道妳工作的地方,報導許多當代最優秀的藝術家?還有他們的作品,他們的創作比藝術還棒。….你以為這只是一本雜誌?這不只是一本雜誌,這是一座閃亮的希望燈塔。」紀錄片《巴黎時尚女魔頭》也在當中提到《CR Fashion Book》的座右銘是:「超越服飾的時尚(Fashion Beyond Clothes.)」上述多少應証了部落客與時尚編輯的差距。那Vogue Runway編輯們的論點錯了嗎?台灣有許多自詡influencer的部落客們的確是穿著贊助的衣服自費敲攝影師前往時裝周,即便包包裡面都是秀票,但除了在社群媒體拍照打卡外,真能表達品牌精神認真與粉絲介紹2017春夏的又有幾位?
thefemin-the-deadly-accurate-illustrated-guide-to-fashion-week-13

就結而論,部落客的出現無疑是給品牌多了一個曝光分享的機會,但無論是部落客或是雜誌編輯(或是模特兒、明星藝人),如果能讓時尚擺脫膚淺的標籤,都是我們樂見其成的結果。然而在諸多報導當中,《New York Magazine》的時尚專欄《The Cut》倒是很壞心的在結尾放了一張Vogue Runway兩位編輯(Alessandra Codinha & Sally Singer看著鏡頭)被街拍的畫面,究竟時尚雜誌還如當初那般受人景仰嗎?部落客是否真有存在的價值?只有各位按讚的粉絲和品牌廠商能夠評斷。

vogue-editors-street-style-06-nocrop-w710-h2147483647-2xvia THE CUT

 

延伸閱讀:

時尚部落客,是品牌解藥還是毒藥?

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